The gracious, riverfront condominium that's our Detroit home away from home. Thank you, Marilyn and Paul, for sharing your city. An artist in once-Polish, going-Muslim Hamtramck brightens up his neighborhood alley. Detroit screams defiance. Where there's Shinola, there's hope, the world press declares. Olympian-grade city historian, Paul Duffy, our guide. Spiral Collective, a local business where I found a gift for She Who Must Be Obeyed (and Decorated). Downtown Detroit uses light curtains to dress up blocks of occupied and vacant storefronts. Paul in a "bad mood" costume. And views. {CLICK any image to expand and smell the gigawatts.}