The nearest one-star

To end the loveliest of days -- a long hike in warm, windy weather; a lengthy bath to fall asleep in -- we ate in Magalas, a large small town 30 minutes away, at O Bontemps, the nearest Michelin one-star restaurant. An interesting approach: you pick a plan, you tell them any food you hate or are allergic to, then the chef surprises you. Our plan was 2 entrees, 1 plate, and dessert. The initial courses seemed small, but that was a tease. The plate was a load of braised, rare veal, with a black rice side. We staggered out.